Contents

The first pie of the year in a cold climate, because rhubarb is the first thing the garden produces — often in April, before any fruit at all. Strawberry is a later addition and a sensible one: rhubarb alone is punishing, and the berry brings sweetness and body.

Both are very wet, and rhubarb in particular disintegrates.

What makes it work

  • Macerate both, drain, reduce. As with peach pie, and even more so here. Rhubarb is 93% water.
  • Cut the rhubarb thick — 2 cm. Thin slices dissolve completely and the filling becomes a purée. Thick pieces keep some shape.
  • Do not use the leaves. Rhubarb leaves carry oxalic acid at toxic levels; only the stalk is food. See Rhubarb.
  • Tapioca handles acid better than cornstarch in a filling this sharp.
  • More sugar than feels right. 250 g for a kilo of fruit. Rhubarb absorbs sweetness without ever tasting sweet.
  • A lattice, so the very wet filling can reduce.

Ingredients

One 23 cm pie. Serves 8.

Method

Toss the rhubarb and strawberries with the sugar, salt and zest. Leave one hour — it will pool badly.

Drain into a pan and reduce the liquid to about 80 ml. Cool, then return it to the fruit with the starch and vanilla.

Line the tin and chill; cut lattice strips.

Heat the oven to 220 °C / 425 °F with a heavy tray inside.

Fill, dot with butter, lattice, chill 20 minutes, glaze and sugar.

Bake 20 minutes at 220 °C, then 190 °C / 375 °F for 45–55 minutes, until bubbling thickly in the centre.

Cool at least four hours.

Notes

  • Forced rhubarb, grown in the dark, is pink, tender and much milder; field rhubarb is green, sour and better in a pie.
  • Rhubarb freezes perfectly. Cut, spread on a tray, freeze, bag — and use it frozen with 15 minutes added.
  • Keeps two days at room temperature. The crust softens fast under this filling.

Elsewhere on the site