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Red algae of the genus Pyropia (formerly Porphyra), shredded, poured into thin sheets and dried — the same paper-making method used for washi. It is essentially pure umami in a dry sheet, and a strip torn over a bowl seasons it more than its weight suggests.

Modern nori farming exists because of Kathleen Drew-Baker, a British phycologist who in 1949 worked out the Porphyra life cycle and its hidden shell-boring phase. Japanese growers, whose harvests until then depended on luck, credit her with saving the industry; there is a monument to her in Uto, Kumamoto.

Grades and forms

  • Yaki nori — plain toasted sheets. The default for rolls and for tearing over bowls.
  • Ajitsuke nori — pre-seasoned with soy and mirin, sold in small snack packets. Sweeter; fine over rice, wrong for sushi.
  • Kizami nori — pre-shredded.
  • Aonori — a different genus entirely, powdered green, for okonomiyaki and yakisoba.

Grade tracks colour and gloss: near-black with a green sheen is high grade; brownish, dull or full of holes is low.

Using it in cold food

  • Cut it with scissors, into fine strips, straight over the bowl.
  • Add it last. Nori absorbs moisture instantly and goes limp and slippery within minutes of touching a dressing. This is the whole handling rule.
  • Refresh a limp sheet by passing it briefly over a gas flame or a dry pan — it crisps and darkens in seconds.

Furikake — nori, sesame, salt, dried fish or shiso — is the ready-made version of this garnish and worth keeping a jar of.

Keeping

Opened nori goes soft fast. Store sealed with a desiccant sachet, and refrigerate or freeze if you use it slowly.

Elsewhere on the site